STOCK INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Our stocks are 100% inletted and, in most cases, will fit with no additional work.  However, due to minor differences in factory tolerances there may be a slight amount of fitting required.

NOTICE:  Seller makes no warranty, expresses or implies, nor accepts any responsibility for any consequential damages beyond purchase price because seller cannot control user’s workmanship, handling, end use or effect of use.  Notification of return of purchase must be done within 3 days from receiving and unaltered of the product.  Returns later than 3 days from delivery and unaltered but not to exceed 15 days are subject to a 15% restocking fee plus postage.

GENERAL

On all stocks it will be necessary to enlarge the screw holes.  Place the barreled action into the stock and check that the barrel is straight in the channel, screws fit, bolt release and trigger work, and striker on the bolt clears the comb (if not, the barreled action is canted in the stock, see “Fitting”).  With the rifle fully assembled make sure all parts fit and it feeds and looks right in the stock.

RECOIL PAD INSTALLATION

First determine your correct length of pull.  The average is 13 5/8” inches based on average height of 5 ft. 10 to 11 inches.  For each one inch of height add or subtract approximately 1/8”.  Cut the stock off using a table saw or hand saw, scuff up the bottom of the recoil pad, apply epoxy to both the pad in place.  The recoil pad should be placed up with the muzzle down to prevent epoxy from running into the pad.  Wait 24 hours until the epoxy has fully cured.  The pad can then be finish ground.  Note:  Wax the outer surface of the stock to prevent epoxy from bonding to it.

BEDDING

On actions typical of Remington, Winchester, etc. where the forward trigger guard / pull down screw is located behind the recoil lug; the sides, front and bottom of the recoil lug should have a layer of black electrical tape to provide clearance.  On actions typical of Mauser, Sako, etc. where the forward screw is located in the recoil lug, the rear tang or a protrusion of the tang set’s into the stock, clearance must be provided behind the protrusion, use at least 2 layers of black electrical tape or clear it after bedding, because when the rifle is fired it will act as a wedge and crack the stock.  The taping is done prior to bedding and is removed after bedding.  This is done to provide clearance for later assembly & disassembly, to prevent binding, or action deflection and is critical in obtaining maximum accuracy.  For a release agent, use a carnauba base paste wax, such as Simonize, Johnson or Classic car wax; do not use a liquid wax.  Make sure you have a good coat on all metal parts, buff it off and apply another coat.  Put a coat of wax on the outside of the stock around the areas you will be bedding.  Allow the wax to dry.  Use 80 grit sandpaper and rough up the areas you will be bedding in the stock.  Mix a small portion of bedding material (about two ounces).  Apply the bedding material in the recoil lug and directly behind the recoil lug for about an inch and also in the rear tang, (note on Mauser, Winchester, Weatherby and Ruger; bed about one inch of the barrel).  With the trigger guard in place start the screws into the stock and action.  DO NOT TIGHTEN THE SCREWS FULLY, GET THEM STARTED ONLY.  Using surgical tubing wrap it around the action and stock 3 or 4 times lightly, tie it off and bring the screws up until they just touch.  DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM.  Place the gun upside down by clamping the barrel in a padded vise (there is less chance that the bedding material will run into the trigger assembly if you have not removed it).  Wait 2 to 4 hours or until the bedding material is firm but not rock hard.  Remove the surgical tubing and trim off the excess epoxy on the stock with a knife taking care not to scratch the metal.  Wait at least 24 hours before disassembling.  In glass-bedding the action, the point to keep in mind is you are trying to create two points to support the action that does not cause stress, or defection, when the screws are tightened.  Trying to bed the entire action may look better but it may also cause problems that can affect accuracy.

TO REMOVE THE BARRELED ACTION

From the stock after glass bedding, take a short piece of 2x4 wood about 6 inches long, clamp the barrel with rifle sideways in a padded vise, using a hammer tap the wood on the top mortise of the stock right next to the action over the recoil lug area and back to the tang.  Do it on both sides if necessary, driving the stock straight off.  The incorrect way commonly used is to hold onto the pistol grip and slam the barrel down, causing the barreled action to come out on a 45 degree angle this will damage the bedding and if enough force is used it will break the stock at the pistol grip.  Remove the tape; clean up excessive bedding material and open up the screw holes.  The recoil lug and bedding areas should have a good bearing surface.  Minor holes or surface blemishes will not affect the accuracy.

CHECKING AND INSPECTING THE BEDDING JOB

To check the bedding job; remove the tape from the barreled action and clean both the stock and the barreled action, lightly  oil the action and install it into the stock, place the rifle upside down, clamping the barrel in  a padded vise.  Lightly tighten both screws and then loosen each screw (one at a time) with one hand while placing the fingers of your other hand at the junction of the barrel and termination of the forearm (or use a dial indicator).  If there is no perceivable movement, this confirms that the bedding job was successful.  If you have perceivable movement this indicates that the front and rear bedding areas are not perfectly aligned and are not supporting the action correctly.  The bedding job should be re-done.  When tightening the screws never apply over 14 lbs. or never use more than your thumb and first two fingers on the screwdriver.

Note on the final assembly:  Use finger nail polish or Wick lock to assure that the screws won’t shoot loose.

FITTING

COMMENTS:  Use lipstick or lamp black as a transfer agent, coat part or parts, install in stock and look for contact areas.  Remove by grinding or filing the visible high spots.  Paper matches make excellent shims, glue in place, they may be removed or left after bedding.  To reiterate:  In glass-bedding an action, the point to keep in mind is you are trying to create two points to support the action that does not cause stress, or defection, when the screws are tightened.

BARRELED ACTION:  If problems in fitting the barreled action are encountered, points to check are the recoil lug for binding at sides or depth of recess, the screw holes for misalignment or it may be necessary, in some cases, to drift the action at the front or rear to center the barrel in the channel.  Often a paper match used as shim stock will move the action at one end or the other and a small amount of material removed from the opposing side of the stock will drift the action the way you want it to go.

BARREL NOT CENTERED:  If the barrel is not centered in the barrel channel wrap 4 to 5 layers of black electrical tape around the barrel at the forearm tip, this will center the barrel.  Then remove whatever high points in the actions area that are causing the problem, so that all parts fit and function, (note as a rule when the barrel is not centered in the stock, it is caused by the face of the receiver being uneven, not at 90 degrees to center line) canting the barrel slightly to the axis of the receiver, typically in this case, when the barrel is centered the forward or mid screw will be misaligned.  If this is the case use the rear tang screw as one point (using a screw or an inletting guide screw), and the tape on the barrel for the second point, clear by grinding or scraping the areas of interference.  Then file the forward screw hole to align and re-fit the trigger guard.  Note:  It may be necessary to file or grind as much as 1/16-inch right or left to center the guard in the new position.

LARGE OR CUSTOM BARRELS

The barrel channel can be modified or enlarged.  To do this use a large burr in a drill motor or a dremel tool and grind it out oversize so as to provide clearance for the larger barrel.  For free floating barrels use 10 mil black vinyl plumbers’ tape (3-M), available at most hardware stores.  Use 3 strips on the barrel and the length of the forearm.  Before bedding the barrel you should have clearance in the barrel channel.  It is better to bed the action first making sure that the large barrel is centered in the forearm completing one phase at a time, and then bed the barrel in the channel.  To bed the barrel wet out the channel with epoxy resin, put the epoxy into the channel then place the barreled action into the stock, tighten the front and rear guard screws and clamp the rifle into a padded vise by the barrel, lightly press the forearm upwards into the barrel several times, (this helps release trapped air bubbles and releases stress caused by impacted fillers).  It is a good idea to allow a full 7 days for room curing epoxies to reach there full physical properties, otherwise the epoxy you have added will shrink and cause the forearm to rise upward. 

FINISHING AND PAINTING

The stock must be thoroughly clean, use an all purpose household cleaner such as 409 (full strength) and scrub with Comet, flush with hot water.  Lightly sand the stock with 80 grit sandpaper and fill pinholes with epoxy, not bondo, (as it does not bond well to epoxy).  Mask off bedding areas.

TEXTURED PAINTS:  Priming is not necessary or advisable; follow directions that come with paint.

WRINKLE PAINTS:  Use 3 or 4 coats of an automotive primer on the surface of the stock, sand with 320 grit.  Tips on wrinkle paint:  The first coat should be medium followed by a second coat in 5 to 7 minutes.  This coat should be applied a little heavier.  With wrinkle paints there are a number of variable, time, temperature, humidity and thickness of coats, all resulting in the overall wrinkle.  When applying wrinkle paints, a hair dryer or a good hot day will help to induce the wrinkle texture at a faster rate.